Black Corporation: Joseon

‘Clothing reform.’

To be precise, it was about changing everything from hairstyles to fashion for greater efficiency.

This was an area where Hyang kept attempting challenges repeatedly but continued to taste bitter defeat.

The best example was when he had to back down after trying to reform the sangtu (topknot) and gache (traditional female wig/hairpiece).

“Damn it…”

When forced to abandon his plans, Hyang couldn’t contain his frustration and had to curse.

Yet Hyang never gave up, constantly looking everywhere for solutions. Despite his tireless search, answers didn’t come easily.

“I could potentially tackle the sangtu using hygiene concerns, but there’s no solution for clothing…”

Hyang’s face was gloomy as he drummed his fingers on the desk while muttering.

When he first attempted to eliminate the sangtu citing ‘hygiene concerns,’ Sejong and his ministers had unanimously responded:

“If hygiene is the issue, wouldn’t washing hair more frequently solve the problem?”

This led to the emergence of a new business called ‘public bathhouses’ (hair-washing houses), but it wasn’t a perfect solution.

“Damn it…”

While Hyang continued cursing, situations were changing, whether people noticed or not.

The military was at the forefront of these changes.

***

The long-range mobile patrol units in the Liaodong region and the navy sailing distant seas both faced the same problem.

‘Lack of clean water.’

This issue plagued both the long-range mobile patrol units and the navy.

Initially, they didn’t consider it a problem.

“What’s the big deal? We’ve gone a month without washing our hair before.”

Though they thought this way at first, problems began emerging as such situations repeated.

Especially for the navy, who couldn’t wash their hair for at least a month and a half—essentially until reaching Malacca—and had to pass through hot and humid regions, various skin conditions became prevalent.

As these issues became more frequent, the accompanying physicians worked to find the cause and solution, eventually reaching a conclusion.

“It’s a hygiene problem!”

To address this, everyone boarding ships, regardless of rank, had to bring at least five sets of inner and outer garments.

Following Hyang’s suggestion, they used clean water obtained from installed distillers for washing clothes and bathing.

However, even with distillers, the water supply wasn’t abundant enough to be a complete solution.

While clothing could be managed somehow, the topknot-styled hair became a breeding ground for all sorts of parasites.

“The sangtu is the problem!”

The ship’s physicians reached this conclusion. This was the evidence Hyang had used when arguing for eliminating the sangtu, only to be pushed back.

However, the harsh conditions aboard ships forced naval commanders to make a decision.

“Let’s recommend cutting the sangtu!”

They had to use the term ‘recommend’ to mitigate resistance from both soldiers and officers from noble backgrounds.

The situation was similar for the army’s long-range mobile patrol units.

Even on land, finding clean streams or springs wasn’t easy.

What appeared to be clean water sources could lead to stomach problems and various waterborne diseases with the slightest mistake.

Therefore, they had to go through the troublesome process of boiling water even when finding clear sources.

This treated water was primarily used for drinking, with personal hygiene always taking a back seat.

Under these circumstances, the long-range patrol units also suffered from skin conditions. Particularly in hot and humid summers, they endured not only skin problems but also insects attracted by odors, while helmets and hats became infested with lice and fleas.

Eventually, the army also began recommending the removal of the sangtu.

Of course, implementing this policy required Sejong’s approval.

When the military’s request came through Jo Malsaeng, Sejong asked with a serious expression:

“The sangtu is a tradition passed down since ancient Joseon—must it really be eliminated?”

Jo Malsaeng and the Chief of Staff immediately responded:

“There are certain things the military must do to properly fulfill its defensive duties. Maintaining soldiers’ fighting strength is one of those essential requirements.”

Faced with the military’s response, Sejong had no choice but to approve.

“If it must be done, then do it. However! Don’t force it—maintain your initial stance of only recommending it.”

“We shall absolutely comply!”

Thus began the disappearance of the sangtu from the military.

***

While military leaders had various concerns about eliminating the sangtu, resistance from officers and soldiers in the field was less than expected.

“Well, better to cut our hair than suffer from boils.”

“Hair grows back anyway…”

“Besides… we’re not the only ones without sangtu, are we?”

The last statement reflected native Koreans’ true feelings.

As reforms progressed and Joseon’s territory expanded, non-native residents from other regions integrated into Joseon society.

The military had the highest concentration of these foreigners.

As a result, the Joseon military was filled with people sporting various hairstyles.

From Koreans with sangtu to Jurchens with queue hairstyles, some had unkempt hair while others were completely shaved.

The military’s changed mindset also played a role.

‘What matters isn’t who you are, but whether you can do your job well or not!’

Based on this shift in thinking, the sangtu gradually began disappearing.

***

The changes that started in the military soon began spreading throughout society.

“Hmm… A proper man must wear a sangtu to be treated as an adult!”

While such negative reactions dominated initially, changes gradually continued over time.

“Washing and drying is so much easier!”

“It’s so convenient to just fetch well water and quickly wash!”

Realizing the convenience of short hair, Joseon’s men began cutting their sangtu one by one.

Reports of this trend reached Geunjeongjeon Hall, and Sejong stroked his beard.

“‘Resistance to removing the sangtu is decreasing,’ eh…”

Checking the report’s contents, Sejong looked at his ministers.

“Should I try cutting mine too? What do you think?”

None of the ministers immediately answered Sejong’s question.

After a long silence, Hwang Hui stepped forward.

“It might be better to observe for a while longer, Your Majesty.”

“…Let’s do that.”

Hearing this, Hyang muttered with an incredulous expression:

“When I suggested it, they resisted so strongly…”

While the sangtu was disappearing, there were still many who stubbornly maintained it.

“I’m not a monk! Why should I cut my sangtu!”

“Ha! A scholar must maintain his dignity!”

While many insisted on keeping the sangtu due to traditional values, some had unexpected reasons.

“At least the sangtu covers it up!”

These were the men suffering from baldness.

***

These changes in hairstyles also brought changes to the public bathhouses.

Moving beyond simply washing hair and maintaining sangtu, they began managing cut hair styles.

They created a new source of income by trimming disheveled hair after cutting the sangtu and creating suitable hairstyles using oils and fragrances.

This aspect sparked a competition of pride among public bathhouses establishments.

Since the Three Kingdoms period, men in this land had enjoyed adorning themselves. It was an era when men commonly wore earrings of various designs.

In this context, moving beyond the uniform sangtu—though people had sought individuality through dongot (hairpins) and other decorations—to having one’s own unique hairstyle was very important for urban fashionistas.

As a result, shops rumored to have “skilled hair craftsmen” became instantly crowded, leading to fierce competition.

***

While the sangtu was riding this wind of change, there were still several immovable issues that troubled Hyang.

Among these, the most representative was women’s gache.

From Queen Soheon at the top to common housewives at the bottom.

While size and attached decorations varied by status, there were no married women who didn’t wear gache.

“This needs to be addressed somehow…”

Though aware of the problems with gache, Hyang struggled to find ways to eliminate it.

“One wrong move and I’ll never hear the end of it.”

Hyang vividly remembered having to beg forgiveness from the Crown Princess, Yangwon, and Yangje after speaking carelessly before.

After much contemplation, Hyang finally gathered craftsmen at Area 51.

“Those skilled in making accessories, step forward! Especially those who understand what women would like!”

As craftsmen hesitantly looked around at Hyang’s command, Pietro was the first to step forward.

‘Something interesting seems about to happen, I can’t miss this!’

After Pietro broke the ice, other craftsmen began stepping forward one by one.

“…9, 10. That’s enough! The rest may leave!”

Having selected the craftsmen, Hyang led them to his office.

“Please be seated.”

Gathering the craftsmen in the office’s conference room, Hyang got to the point.

“From now on, you’ll be working with me on a new project.”

“You mentioned accessories?”

“Correct. Making accessories. But these accessories have an ambitious goal.”

The craftsmen fixed their attention on Hyang, swallowing nervously at his words.

Having gathered their attention, Hyang revealed his purpose.

“The purpose of these accessories is to replace the gache.”

As soon as Hyang finished speaking, the craftsmen shouted simultaneously.

“Impossible!”

“For women, gache is something they can’t remove even if they want to!”

“The women will never accept this!”

Though the craftsmen protested it was impossible, Hyang’s expression remained firm.

“It may seem impossible and difficult, but we must succeed. Nothing is more dangerous and troublesome than the gache. You must know this yourselves?”

“…”

The craftsmen fell silent at Hyang’s question.

Having made accessories for queens and royal concubines, they knew well what kind of item the gache was.

‘It’s certainly perfect for killing people.’

Finally realizing Hyang’s determination, the craftsmen reluctantly asked:

“Then what kind of accessories does Your Highness have in mind?”

Hyang immediately answered:

“Cheopji^[1] and jokduri^[2].”

Hearing Hyang’s chosen items, the craftsmen fell silent and deeply considered the possibilities.

‘You do need cheopji to wear jokduri.’

‘Some might just wear cheopji alone, perhaps?’

‘Proper cheopji needs cheopji-meori, which requires daeri (hair extensions) just like gache… Ah! But much less quantity!’

‘Cheopji can be quite stylish if designed well.’

‘Jokduri… thinking about it like hwagwan (flower crown), it might work…’

After silently considering the possibilities for a while, the craftsmen reached their own conclusions and spoke:

“It seems possible.”

“It might work if we do it right.”

At the craftsmen’s words, Hyang’s face brightened.